簡介
查爾斯.弗雷德里克.沃斯(CHARLES FREDERICK WORTH,1825—1895)
人物生平
他把新設計的衣服讓工作室的漂亮姑娘穿起來向顧客展示推銷，開創了服裝表演(作品發展形式)和時裝模特兒(新的職業)的先河；他還創立了自己選購衣料,自己設計,在自己的工作室里製作,僱傭專屬自己的時裝模特兒每年向特定的顧客舉辦作品發表會等一系列獨特的經營方式，從而形成了巴黎高級時裝業的原型。他還是第一個向美國和英國的成衣廠商出售設計的設計師，他的成就引來許多設計師的效仿。巴黎逐漸形成高級時裝行業，確立"世界時裝發源地"和"世界流行中心"的國際地位。
查爾斯·夫菜戴里克·沃斯Ball gown, ca. 1872
Charles Frederick Worth (French, born England, 1825–1895)
Open full-size and alternate view(s)1SilkGift of Mrs. Philip K. Rhinelander, 1946 (C.I.46.25.1a-d)
The silhouette suddenly deflated in the 1870s, from a broad dome to something more akin to a right triangle. This silhouette developed in part because of the need to absorb the voluminous skirts, which had been worn over the domed cage crinoline. The solution was to pull the excess fabric behind and create a bustle which was elaborated with trimmings and supported with steel or cane hoops that projected backwards from the body. The waistline during this period was still in approximately natural position, but the torso overall had taken on a new shape in the advent of the spoon busk. Curved outward over the abdomen, the spoon busk allowed the fullness of the belly to be expressed below a compressed waist. The rounded lower torso in combination with a supported bust above formed a curvaceous hourglass silhouette.
Worth rarely scrutinized or adapted forms from the East. More often, he was an instrument of a Western taste that was projected globally via imperialism; for instance, he is said to have created 250 dresses on commission from Empress Eugénie for her appearances at the opening of the Suez Canal in 1868. But in this unusual example from his oeuvre, he emulated Middle Eastern enamels. The gown was worn by Mrs. William De Forest Manice, the donor's grandmother, at both the French and English courts during the reigns of Napoleon III and Queen Victoria. When worn on such occasions, the dress had a detachable brocade train, since destroyed.
